Rakiura – land of wind and birdsong
January 8th was Nigel’s birthday so a lazy late start to the day and a birthday visit from a cheeky Kākā.
We headed off to Ackers Point dodging the rain showers. First stop brought us to Harold Bay and Acker’s House which was the first European house on the island. Lewis Acker, an American, came to New Zealand as a whaler but turned his hand to boat building. He, his wife and their nine children lived in the two roomed stone house he built in what is now known as Harold Bay. Apparently they had a 5 storey bunkbed!
We continued on the undulating track which follows the headland dropping down a couple of times to sea level just for the fun of it and managing to shelter from the squally showers in the bush.
Little Blue penguins nest in this area although we wouldn’t expect to spot any in the middle of the day. It amazes me that such tiny birds hop up such steep terrain to build their nests. Mutton Birds also nest here although mostly they are across the sea on the Tītī islands but it seems that they pretty much slide in to land on chutes that lead to their nests. After missing albatross in flight on Otago Peninsular, we were keen to spot them here and we were excited when we did. Strictly speaking they are Mollymocks which are slightly smaller but they belong to the albatross family and are just as elegant and majestic in flight.
At the end of the headland is a stunning view straight across to the Tītī islands and to the right is The Neck. An unmanned solar panelled lighthouse stands above the information boards where once there was a gas powered lighthouse. The lighthouse was moved to Acker’s Point in 1927 when the main population moved to Halfmoon Bay from The Neck.
In the afternoon we persuaded Aonghas to take Nigel out whilst Chris and I feigned tiredness so that we could make birthday cake. Once it was in the oven we battled the wind and rain and walked up to Wohler’s Monument. The constantly changing light that comes with the switch from sun to rain and back again is magical. I love the wind and how exhilarated it makes me feel. A wonderful result of sunshine and rain are rainbows and we have not been disappointed. We watched this one ‘grow’ from out at the island.
After birthday cake afternoon tea we headed to the South Sea Hotel for tea. Not ideal for vegetarians since pizzas were not available and the onion soup was made with chicken stock so Nigel had a choice of Nachos, veggie burger or salad but the Blue Cod and chips was pretty good!
We ended the evening playing cards and with a wee dram of Drambuie! Good first day on Rakiura!